![]() It turns out that the Saturn factory components were made by Luk - so the Luk kit is essentially a factory GM kit at over a 50% savings!īTW, Here's are some great online resources for finding the best prices on parts:. Bottom line, if you can afford a 2 day wait you can save a lot by buying online even if paying a bit extra to get 1 day shipping on Amazon. I lucked out and found a Luk brand kit (04-228) on Amazon from an excess inventory seller for $155. Looking online, name brand kits, like Luk, could be found on ebay as low as $196 plus shipping, or on Amazon for $210 including shipping. Looking around locally and on the web, I found that the cost for clutch kits varied tremendously - locally the cheapest I could find a kit was about $350 - and that was with a shop discount. I went with the used transmission route because the cost of the good used transmission was only $275, less than the cost of the synchro kits needed to rebuild the tranny. I purchased a used transmission from an Ion with 41K miles on it to replace the damaged one in the car. I will be replacing the drive shaft seals on the transmission/differential prior to installing it - again as cheap insurance against future leaks. Note that the combination slave cylinder/throwout bearing assembly also contains an integral transmission input shaft seal - so that seal is taken care of as well. When I pulled the transmission out I discovered that the clutch disk was almost worn down to the rivets, so I'll be replacing all the clutch components while I have it out: clutch slave cylinder/throwout bearing assembly, self adjusting pressure plate, clutch disk, and, since the car has 101k miles on it, the rear main seal as insurance against future leaks that could mess up the new clutch. If not dealt with promptly, you'll wind up with my situation. If the problem is dealt with quickly by replacing the worn retaining bushing in the pedal (an $8 item and fairly easy to fix in place) this damage can be avoided, as well as damage to the pedal and the non-replaceable ball on the master cylinder pushrod. ![]() WARNING!!!! if the ball on the clutch master cylinder is loose in the clutch pedal due to the retaining bushing being worn out you are likely starting to do some damage to your tranny too. It is less expensive to buy a good used tranny than to replace the synchro assemblies, so that's the route I will be taking. Soooo, I am now replacing the manual transmission on this car. I bought it knowing that there was a clutch pedal linkage issue that I would be fixing, but didn't realize that damage to the tranny had occurred due to the clutch master cylinder not actuating enough to fully disengage the clutch and thus destroying the synchros in the tranny. We just bought a used 2003 Ion Quad Coupe for my daughter who's in college. Each part is clearly identified at the end, along with a description of where it picks up again in the subsequent part (or posting) in the thread. Note that due to the length of this writeup (about 33k characters), it has to be broken down into smaller chunks of 11k characters or less in order to fit within the site's limits. ![]() The audience for this posting is the not-so-experienced DIY person asking about transmission and clutch R&R on their or a friend's Ion. If you are a journeyman mechanic or an experienced DIY'er, you may get bored by the detail. In addition, I'll try to cover some of the maybe-not-so-obvious issues often assumed by the FSM and other tech guides. My intent here is to be fairly comprehensive, while not going to the bolt-by-bolt detail the Factory Service Manual would. This first post will cover all topics mentioned except for reinstallation - I'll post an update with those details. I'll divide the post into a few sections: background, purchasing research, tranny R&R, clutch R&R and final thoughts. I couldn't find a thread that covered these two topics in a comprehensive manner, so I thought I should start one that will hopefully be useful as a guide to those that need it.
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